quarantine aquarium for saltwater fish My eBook is available on Amazon for digital download: How to kill ich and marine velvet parasite in your saltwater aquarium. For beginners to advanced. ONLY $2.99. the facts on how to ich and marine velvet for good, keeping your fish healthy permanently.
quarantine all new saltwater fish, corals and inverts before placing into your main display tank.
Purchase my eBook at Amazon on how to kill ich in your saltwater aquarium. or
Great for beginner or advanced.
quarantine aquarium for saltwater fish. quarantine a new or sick fish to protect your aquarium from contagious diseases and parasites. Quarantine all fish before placing into your main reef tank aquarium. New fish could carry a parasite even if they look healthy! Dose quarantine tank with Cupramine copper by Seachem. This will kill any parasite. You will not use copper when quarantining corals or rocks, just fish. Quarantine for 3 weeks minimum. This will prevent any parasite from entering your main reef tank. This is the only way to prevent any parasite from entering your reef tank. See my other video on how to kill the parasite if it is already in your main display tank.
When selecting an aquarium to use as a quarantine, there are only a few things to consider. First, it must be proportional in size to the main display tank. If the plan is a 180-gallon reef display that is to be teaming with surgeonfish, a 10-gallon tank as a quarantine tank for fishes is a bad choice. If you have a 55-gallon tank and are a conscientious aquarist, there are few fish that could not reasonably be kept in a 55-gallon tank for their entire life that couldn’t be maintained in a 10-gallon tank for one month. If a 150-gallon or larger tank is used for a display, consider purchasing a 30-gallon or larger quarantine tank if the larger display is to house larger-sized animals. Generally, aim for a quarantine tank that is at least 20% of the main display’s volume, although bigger would be better.
Copper (copper sulfate/copper citrate/ cupramine): Copper is a metal ion which is also basically a poison to any organism at a high enough concentration. Copper treats most external protozoan and flatworm parasites. It is not very effective against crustacean parasites (parasitic isopods/copepods and the fish lice argulus/branchiurans) or marine leeches. Copper is generally run at .2 ppm and only the salifert test kit we have found for the hobby level can accurately tell you where the levels are at within a respectable range. (API, red sea, Seachem don’t seem accurate enough or the colors are too close). Fish in general become lethargic and anorexic around .4-.6 ppm with copper sulfate and copper citrate and around .6-.8 for cupramine. Some fish, such as seahorses/mandarins/lionfish/dwarf angelfishes/any already stressed or sick fish, are hypersensitive to copper though we have pretty reliably treated those species with cupramine. A very important note: Do not use ammonia binding compounds (amquel/prime) when using cupramine (and it’s unclear about the other coppers but why risk it) but it turns the active copper 2+ ion to the more toxic copper 1+. This same mechanism happens when using a UV sterilizer with cupramine and so it is imperative to turn those off when treating. Reports and personal experience of copper overdoses include lethargy (fish acting dull, agitated, and unresponsive) anorexia (fish not eating), and even neurological signs like blindness. We have seen a temporarily blinded powder blue tang and a regal angelfish on separate occasions from copper overdose. Another important warning when using cupramine is that the dosing directions on the bottle are not clear about the therapeutic dose. They explain dosing in terms of what volume to add to get to .5 ppm, however this dose is not necessary and actually getting close to a dangerous level for some fish. Therapeutic levels to treat most protozoan parasites is .2 ppm (.18 actually) so copper levels including cupramine should ideally be kept around .25-.3 ppm.
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